Review: The envy of other sushi restaurants

Rather than a server bringing the food to the table, at Sushi Envy, diners select their choices from a constantly moving conveyor belt that features a variety of selections.

Christina Lazutkin

Rather than a server bringing the food to the table, at Sushi Envy, diners select their choices from a constantly moving conveyor belt that features a variety of selections.

The future is almost here and automation is starting to take over more of the work humans do these days. For years, computers have been recommending music and keeping you from crashing from your car.

Granted, at Sushi Envy, you won’t find an android waiter: rather, you will eat sushi prepared by human chefs but transported by conveyor belt. It’s not the norm, but when you see that track sprawling over all the tables, carrying a hundred little plates and lit up by countless neon lights, you have to admit: it’s an impressive feat of engineering.

Since your food isn’t supervised when it comes to you, there are two different systems of paying for your meal. You can opt for $18 all-you-can-eat conveyor belt sushi, or you can pay $2 for each plate you leave behind after the meal. Either way, you pay extra for drinks, appetizers, and nigiri, which are, almost disappointingly, delivered by humans.

The fare itself is typical American-Japanese sushi. California rolls, tuna rolls, and salmon rolls move through the restaurant next to specialty rolls. Everything’s fresh and holds together in your chopsticks. But the real star is the most American, unauthentic roll they have.

Now, I’ve seen a fair amount of tempura shrimp rolls and State Fair fried foods. I’ve tried everything from fried jambalaya to fried lemonade. There’s a lot of fried food in Texas that I’m familiar with, but I’ve never seen anyone fry little individual sushi rolls, whole, in the same batter. Who’d have thought I’d see one coming towards me on the belt? I took it almost entirely out of curiosity – I didn’t even see it on the menu, I’m pretty sure it was just the chef playing around with recipes. I was forced to ask myself: is it even allowed, to fry a sushi roll?

Pro tip: it should be. It didn’t taste entirely like sushi, but the familiar twang of nori and the fresh fish mingled surprisingly well with the fried tempura. The sweet orange sauce on top tied it all together.

Equally astonishing was the ease of “ordering” off a conveyor belt. I took my more adventure-shy friend with me to Sushi Envy recently. With the tiny portion sizes and sheer amount of options, I found it super easy to get him to try something like an eel roll or octopus nigiri. If he did, he found a new favorite roll to keep looking for on the belt. If he didn’t, no sweat. I’d nick the remaining sushi from his plate. Both of us left the building thoroughly satisfied with our meals.

Sushi Envy has put together an experience you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere close to Frisco. Anyone who’s up for raw fish would have a great time trying the different plates, and those interested in new dining experiences would love the novelty of conveyor belt dining. It may not be cyborg chefs or drone-based service, but it’s tasty and exciting. At least for now, this is the restaurant of the future.